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Crafts

From the Backyard

Here's how to transform a backyard nature walk into interesting crafts projects for children.

* Note: If you're exploring a local park be sure to observe the rules. Some parks forbid the removal of certain items. Also, be familiar with the poisonous plants in your region before collecting any leaves.

1. When collecting natural items for crafts, anything that appeals to you with its texture, color, size or shape will work--whether it's a flat rock, a nicely veined leaf, or a curly twig.

2. Use colorful tempera paints to decorate rocks for paperweights, pictures and gifts.

3. Twigs and vines are great for making baskets, hot plates and coasters. To make twigs more pliable, soak them in a bucket of water for a few hours. Twist a vine or twig into a spiral, securing it with twine as you go.

4. With white glue and a little imagination, you can make rock animals.

5. Make garden markers out of flat rocks and fabric paints.

6. Children typically love fossils, and you can help them make their own with air-dry clay (available at arts and crafts store). Simply press an object into the clay and let it dry for about an hour.

7. Decorate a paper bag with leaves and other items to serve as a "nature bag" for collecting treasures found on your walks. Be sure to cover the entire back surface of the items leaf with school glue and press firmly onto the paper.

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Homemade Decorated Vases and Jars

Materials:
Glass bottle, jar or vase
Dried leaves or flower petals
White glue
Paintbrush
Scissors
Polyurethane sealer, spray or brush-on

Press leaves between the pages of a heavy book for about a week. Try ivy leaves, fern or poinsettia foliage or flower petals.

Paint the back of the leaves with white glue, and stick them onto a glass bottle, jar or vase. Overlap the leaves for full coverage. Paint over the top of the leaves with white glue.

Use scissors to cut off any leaves or petals that extend over the bottom of the jar.


When the glue is dry, coat the bottle entirely with spray- or brush-on polyurethane sealer.
Tip:
Wash jars by hand, not in the dishwasher.

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Homemade Potpourri

Materials:
Large wooden mixing bowl
Sheet moss
Vanilla and cinnamon essential oils--or other scents of your choice
Dried orange slices
Dried apple slices
Dried lemon slices
Whole nuts
Acorns
Pinecones
Pine needles
Eucalyptus leaves
Whole cloves
Cinnamon sticks
Fabric squares
Wire or ribbon

Pull sheet moss apart into small pieces. Add about half a small bottle of vanilla essential oil--or another scent of your choice. Using your hands, work the oil into the moss, which will hold the scent.

Add dried fruit slices, nuts, pinecones, eucalyptus leaves, cloves, cinnamon sticks or whatever you have on hand.

Place some of the potpourri in the center of small squares of fabric, tie them with wire or ribbon, and put them on the Christmas tree. When guests come to the house, give them a potpourri ornament as a holiday remembrance.

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Beaded Fabric Coasters

I'm certain that I never would have thought of making beaded coasters had I not seen them.

I did not make mine like those I saw. I did use the same kind of tiny no-hole beads that have become so popular with crafters and are available these days in most craft and/or rubber stamp stores. I think that most any fabric could be used as the base. I used lamé in green, silver, red and gold. One color is sufficient, however.

Materials:

lamé in choice of color
thread
ruler*
pen or pencil
scissors
white glue
sheet of TSI tacky tape**
clear no-hole tiny beads.

*The coasters demonstrated were 4 inches square. To measure I used a 4-inch square plastic ruler. If you do not have one, it will save time if you cut a 4" x 4" square of cardboard to use as your pattern.

**This tape is the super tacky tape used for many projects. It goes by many different names and is available in sheets as well as in rolls of different widths. For this project, you will need the sheets. It is essential that you use this heavy-duty sticky tape for this project or the beads will not stay stuck through use. The tape is easily identified because the peel-off protective sheet is rose in color.

Steps:

Figure A.


1. Measure and cut out two 5" squares of lamé. Place the 4-inch square on top of one of them and draw around it (figure A).



Figure B.


2. Stack the two pieces of lamé and stitch together stitching on the drawn line. Leave 1-1/2 inch unstitched for turning (figure B).



Figure C.
3. Place a line of white glue or Fabri-Tac all the way around the square about 1/8- to 1/4-inch outside of the stitched line (figure C). Spread it out a bit using a toothpick. This is to prevent raveling. Also glue through the unstitched area. Allow to dry.


Figure D.


4. When the glue has dried completely, cut around the square, cutting through the glue. Cut the corners at an angle to avoid excess fabric (figure D).



Figure E.

5. Turn the piece right side out, turn the unstitched section in, and either hand-sew closed or place a narrow strip of the tape on the folded-in fabric and press closed (figure E). These will not be washed so there is no problem.



Figure F.

6. Cut a square of the tape slightly larger than the coaster and apply to one side of the coaster. Peel off the protective layer (figure F) and place face down in a foam tray filled with beads.



Figure G.



Totally cover the tape with the beads (figure G).




Figure H.


7. Turn the coaster wrong side up and very carefully trim the excess tape from around the edges (figure H). Done!




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*Learning How to Crochet*

Learning how to crochet requires little more than a few simple stitches and some practice. Soon, you’ll have the skills you need to make a soft, bright baby blanket, a toy ball, or a granny square.

Basic Materials: Crochet hook; yarn; measuring tape or ruler; straight pins; yarn needle.

Holding the Yarn: There are several methods for threading the yarn through the fingers, but no matter which method you choose, the yarn must be able to flow easily from hand to hook. We passed it over the little finger, under the ring finger, and over the middle and forefingers. If you prefer, loop the yarn around the little finger, passing it over the forefinger. How the yarn is held is a matter of preference; practice until you find a comfortable way to keep the tension consistent. Hold the hook as you would a spoon, as shown here, or if you prefer, a pencil. Use the hook to pull the yarn from your fingers through the loop on the hook.

Making a Gauge Swatch: Most patterns indicate the size of the finished item. To ensure that your item ends up that size, crochet a gauge swatch first to compare with the gauge recommended in your pattern. Using the same hook, yarn, and style of stitches you plan to use for your finished piece, work a sample at least 4 inches square, then place on a flat surface. Insert two straight pins vertically into the swatch, 3 inches apart. Count the number of stitches between the pins. Repeat with two horizontally placed straight pins for rows. If your sample has more stitches or rows than indicated in the gauge, switch to a larger hook. If your sample has fewer stitches or rows than indicated, use a smaller hook.

Hook Size and Yarn Weight: If you are new to crocheting, it helps to remember that both hook size and yarn weight refer to thickness. A hook’s thickness is indicated with a letter (most U.S. sizes), a number (most metric or European sizes), or a combination. The higher the number or letter, the thicker the hook. Yarn weight, like hook size, refers to thickness, but is denoted by a name. From lightest to heaviest, yarn is referred to as: fingering, sport, double knitting, worsted, aran, and bulky.

Increasing and Decreasing: To increase the width of a piece, add more stitches by working two stitches of one row into a single stitch of the row before it. To decrease the width, subtract stitches: Skip a stitch, and work into the next stitch instead. There are other ways to increase and decrease in crochet, but these are the simplest.

Getting Started: Once you decide what to crochet, read through all the instructions first: Being familiar with the pattern before you begin is the best way to ensure success. Typically, the first five rows of crochet are the most difficult, even for experienced needle crafters, and projects are most likely to be abandoned at this early stage due to frustration. Try to work at least ten rows so that your fingers become accustomed to the work.

*How To Crochet*

Refer to the illustrations below for the chain stitch and the single crochet: Once you learn how to do the double-crochet stitch, you can create colorful scarves, bookmarks, pincushions, or soft blocks out of granny squares. Practice the stitches with a size J hook and a heavy yarn, such as worsted weight. Once you have mastered them and reviewed crocheting basics, change to the smaller hook and lighter yarn recommended in each pattern.

Step 1 & 2
1. Make a loop as shown. Insert hook in loop, catch lower yarn, and draw it up through loop.

2. To tighten, pull long end of yarn downward. Chain Stitch (CH)The chain stitch is the basic unit of your first, or foundation, row. This stitch is also used to create spaces between fancier stitches.

Steps 3 & 4
3. With working yarn in your left hand (for you leftys out there, use your opposite hand) and the hook in your right, wrap yarn around hook, and draw it through slipknot.

4. Tighten. One chain stitch is now complete.

*Single Crochet* (SC)

Once you’ve completed your foundation row, work a row of single crochet stitches into these chain stitches.

Steps 5 & 6
5. Insert hook through second chain stitch from hook.

6. Wrap yarn around hook, and draw it through that stitch.

Steps 7 & 8
7. Wrap yarn around hook a second time, drawing it through both loops on hook.

8. Adjust tension by pulling on yarn until existing loop just fits around the hook. One single crochet is now complete. Turning Chain (T-CH) A turning chain is an extra chain stitch added just before you turn your work, to prevent buckling and keep the work straight.

Steps 9 & 10
9. Wrap the yarn around the hook, and use hook to draw yarn back through loop from previous stitch. Foundation Ring To work in the round, a foundation row is joined into a ring. Subsequent stitches are worked into this ring, then into each other in a continuous circle.

10. Make a foundation row of chain stitches, then close the ring: Insert hook into first stitch, wrap with yarn, and draw yarn through both chain stitch and loop on hook to make a slip stitch (sl st).

*Double Crochet (DC)

Steps 11 & 12
11. Wrap hook with yarn, then insert hook through foundation ring from front to back.

12. Hook working yarn and draw it back through ring.

Steps 13 & 14
13. There are now 3 loops on hook. Wrap hook with yarn, and draw it through first 2 loops on hook.

14. On the hook now are 2 more loops. Again wrap hook with yarn and draw it through both loops. You have now completed one dc. Continue working dcs into ring as instructed in Round One; then you have reached end of round, join ring of dcs with a sl st. Right side of work is facing you. Joining New Yarn Add yarn or introduce a new color at beginning of a row or round.

Steps 15 & 16
15. Work a stitch with old yarn, then complete stitch with new yarn, using hook to draw it through. Lay loose end of new yarn along top of row; work over it.

16. Finishing Off: To prevent the work from unraveling, crochet a final stitch. Cut yarn, leaving a small tail; use hook to draw it through last loop. Pull tight. Thread tail of yarn through a yarn needle, and darn neatly into back of work, weaving in ends.

Step 17 Thread a yarn needle with a generous length of yarn. Place pieces with right sides together, and sew, inserting needle through both loops of the tops of the crochet stitches, as shown.





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Knitting 101

Getting Started
Pattern Sizes
Sizes for most knitting projects are noted in the instructions. When one size is written out in capitalized letters, it is to note the size of the modeled garment. The instructions are written for the smallest size with changes for larger sizes in parentheses. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. For ease in working, before you begin, circle the numbers pertaining to the size you are knitting or crocheting.

• Metric Conversions: To convert inch measurements to centimeters, multiply the inches by 2.5.

Skill Level Rating Key
•Beginner: Basic stitches including increasing, decreasing, and finishing skills.
•Easy: Simple stitch patterns and/or shaping.
•Intermediate: More complicated stitch patterns and charts.
•Experienced (Advanced): Intricate stitch and color pattern and/or involved shaping and finishing techniques.


Needles
Knitting requires at least two knitting needles to make a knitted fabric. Knitting needles usually are pointed at one end and have a knob at the other. For larger projects, there are circlular needles to accommodate many stitches. For making such projects as socks, gloves and etc, there are double-pointed needles. They're available in plastic, bamboo, wood, steel, and aluminum. Needles come in a variety of sizes; from #1 to one inch or two in diameter. The needle size you choose "do affect" the gauge, or stitches and rows per inch, of your finished knitting.


Gauge Notations
Most knitting projects include a gauge notation. The gauge, or the number of stitches or rows per inch, is determined by the size of the needles and the weight of the yarn. Always work a gauge swatch (below) to see whether your tension equals the gauge specified in the instructions. If you have too many stitches per inch, you are working too tightly: Change to larger needles. If you have too few stitches per inch, you are working too loosely: Change to smaller needles. For practice sessions, choose medium-size needles (size 8 or 9) and a smooth, light-color yarn so you can see your work easily.

•To make a gauge swatch: Using the recommended needles and yarn, cast on a few more stitches than the number indicated by the gauge printed on the yard band for 4 inches (10 cm). Work the pattern for at least 4 inches. Loosely bind off or remove the swatch from the needles. Place a ruler over the swatch; count the number of stitches across 1 inch and the number of rows down 1 inch, including fractions of stitches rows. If you have too many stitches and rows, switch to larger needles; if you have too few stitches, use smaller needles.


Your First Stitches
Making a Slipknot
This basic knot comes in handy outside knitting and crochet, too.



A slipknot is the first step in starting most knitting projects. The instructions and diagrams show how to create one.

To begin, let the tail of the yarn hang in front of your palm, and loop the yarn loosely around the first two fingers of your left hand (A).





Pull the yarn attached to the ball underneath the yarn behind your fingers and then through the loop (B).







Hold the tail of the yarn in your left hand and the newly made loop in your right hand. Pull the tail to tighten, and make a slipknot (C).





Casting On


Holding the knitting needle in your right hand, slide the newly made slipknot onto the knitting needle. Pull gently on the yarn to tighten the slipknot so it doesn't fall off the needle. (A)





Lay the yarn attached to the ball in your left hand, slipping it around your thumb and holding it in place with the fingers of your left hand. Arch your thumb slightly to create a little tension (B).








Move the needle to the right of your left thumb, and then slip the needle tip under the strand of yarn that is in your palm (C).





Let the yarn slip off your thumb, and pull gently on the yarn to tighten the new stitch on the needle. Repeat steps B through D until you have the number of stitches you need to cast on, as indicated by your project instructions. Now you're ready to continue with one of the two basic stitches, the knit or purl stitch (D).



Knit and Purl Stitches
• Knit Stitch

Here's how to make the basic knit stitch, which gives the needle art its name. When knitting, always work the stitches from the left needle onto the right needle.


(A) Hold the needle that has the cast-on stitches on it in your left hand. Hold the other needle in your right hand. Insert the right-hand needle (RHN) from front to back into the first stitch on the left-hand needle (LHN). Notice that the RHN is behind the LHN.



(B) Form a loop by wrapping the yarn under and around the RHN.




(C) With the RHN, carefully pull the loop through the stitch on the LHN so the loop is in front of the work. You have just made a new knit stitch, which is on the RHN.



(D) With the new stitch securely on the RHN, slip the first or "old" knit stitch over and off the tip of the LHN. The knit stitch is complete. Notice that the stitch is smooth on the front and has a V shape.




• Purl Stitch

Seasoned knitters sometimes say that the purl stitch is just like knitting, only backwards. That's not far off; the purl stitch is just the reverse of the knit stitch.


(A) Hold the needle that has the cast-on stitches on it in your left hand. Hold the other needle in your right hand. With your yarn in front of the work, put the RHN from back to front into the first stitch on the LHN. Notice that the RHN is in front of the LHN.

(B) Form a loop by wrapping the yarn on top of and around the RHN.

(C) Bring the RHN under the LHN and carefully pull the loop through the stitch with the RHN onto the LHN to make a new purl stitch. Notice that the RHN will slip behind the LHN as shown.


(D) With the new stitch securely on the RHN, slip the first or "old" purl stitch over and off the tip of the LHN. The purl stitch is complete. Notice that, unlike the smooth knit stitch, the purl stitch has a bump or ridge at its base.



Increasing and Decreasing

• Increasing
Here's what to do when the instructions say to "increase."

Insert the RHN into the front of the first stitch on the LHN, and complete a knit stitch by wrapping the yarn around the needle and pulling it through the stitch on the LHN. However, do not slip the first stitch off the LHN. Carefully insert the RHN into the back of the same stitch you just knitted, as shown in the illustration. Complete this knit stitch by wrapping the yarn around the needle and pulling it through that same stitch on the LHN. With the two new stitches securely on the RHN, slip the first "old" stitch off the LHN. You have just increased one stitch.


• Slip-Stitch Decrease
This decrease appears on the knit side of your work and is usually used on the right edge of the row. It's often abbreviated as "sl1, k1, psso" and sometimes as "SKP." Both stand for the same technique, which is "slip 1 stitch, k 1 stitch, then pass the slipped stitch over."



(A) Slip one stitch as follows: With your yarn in back of the work, put the RHN from back to front into the first stitch on the LHN as if you were going to purl the stitch. Without doing anything with your yarn, carefully slip that first stitch from the LHN onto the RHN. Knit the next stitch.

Pass the slipped stitch over as follows: On the front of your work, put the LHN from left to right into the second stitch (the slipped stitch) on the RHN. Lift this stitch over the first stitch (the previous knitted stitch) on the RHN, and then over the tip of the RHN; let it drop completely off both needles. You have just decreased one stitch.





• Working Two Stitches Together Decrease



This decrease appears on the knit side of your work and is usually used on the left edge of the row. It also can be worked on the purl side of your work. It's often abbreviated as "k2tog" or "p2tog."


Normally, you would insert the RHN into the first stitch on your LHN. In this case, skip the first stitch completely, and put the RHN into the second stitch and at the same time into the first stitch on the LHN. Notice that the RHN is now through two stitches. Complete the knit stitch by wrapping the yarn under and over the RHN and carefully pulling it through both stitches. Allow the two stitches to slip off the LHN; let the new single stitch remain on the RHN. You have just decreased one stitch. To purl two stitches together, put the RHN into the first stitch on the LHN as if you were going to purl the stitch, and at the same time insert it into the next stitch on the needle. Complete the purl stitch as you normally would, carefully pulling the yarn through both stitches. Slip the two stitches off the LHN, and let the new single stitch remain on the RHN. You have just decreased one stitch. This increase appears on the knit side of your work.


Stranding Colors

• Changing Colors



Here's the technique you need when your knitting pattern calls for a change of color.



Drop the color you've been working with behind your work. Insert the RHN into the next stitch, then pick up and lay the old color on top of the RHN. Let it lie there as you pick up the new color with your left hand, and wrap it under and around the needle as if you were going to knit the stitch. Before completing the knit stitch, push the old color off the top of the needle, then complete the knit stitch with the new color.

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