Lawn and Garden Glossary
~A~
Acid soil: Soil with pH less than 7.0. Raise soil pH (lower acidity and raise alkalinity) by adding lime.

Aerate: Loosen compacted soil to allow oxygen, water and nutrients to get below the surface. Aeration is done either by punching holes into the lawn or removing plugs of soil from the lawn.

Amendments: Organic substances added to the soil to improve moisture retention, oxygen level and nutritive content.

Alkaline soil: Soil having a pH more than 7.0. Lower soil pH (raise acidity and lower alkalinity) by adding sulfur.

Annual: A plant that completes its life cycle in a single year.

Aphids: Insects that look like black, yellow, green or white grains of rice. Aphids suck the juices of new growth on plants.

Apical bud: Also called terminal bud. Apical buds are at the tip of a plant stem.

~B~
Balled and Burlapped (B&B): A method of plant preparation in which the entire root system is contained inside a ball of soil and wrapped in burlap for protection.

Bareroot: Dormant plants sold with the roots loose rather than contained in a wrapped soil ball or container.

Bed: A specific garden area in which plants are grouped together to create a unified design.

Biennial: A plant with a life cycle that spans two years. The first year the plant produces stem and foliage growth. After a dormant season, they produce flowers and seeds the second year.

Bolt: Prompted by warming weather, leaf crops such as spinach and cabbage stop producing leaves and send up seed stalks.

Bonsai: Trained and dwarfed trees and plants in special shallow containers. Bonsai mimics growth in the wild, but on a tiny scale.

Broadcast: To randomly disperse seeds or other material across a set area.

Bulb: An underground modified stem, usually covered by a papery exterior. Bulbs are the growth and food source for many flowering perennials.

~C~
Cold Frame: A four-sided structure with a glass or plastic covering used to shelter young plants or transplanted seedlings from cold temperatures.

Companion Planting: Adjacent growing of mutually beneficial plants to improve growth and repel pests.

Compost: A diverse mixture of completely decayed organic matter used for fertilizing and conditioning soil.

Conifer: A woody tree or shrub, primarily evergreen, that produces cones.

Containerized: Container-grown trees and shrubs are ready to transplant along with the soil they have been grown in.

Corm: A bulb-like structure that serves as a continual underground food source for a flowering plant.

Crown: The uppermost part of a tree where new growth takes place or the part of a plant where the roots and stem join.

Cultivar: A plant variety resulting from the cross-pollination of two different plants within a species.

Cultivate: To assist a plant in the growing process.

Cuttings: Portions of root, stem, branch or leaf used to propagate plants.

~D~
Deadhead: To remove flower heads from plants after they have bloomed to prolong the flowering season.

Deciduous: A plant that loses most or all of its leaves in fall or winter.

Determinate: A plant that, by artificial or natural means, produces all of its flowers or fruit at the same time.

Division: A method of producing new plants from existing stock by digging up the plant, cutting it into two or more pieces, and replanting.

Dormancy: Period of rest exhibited by no growth or flowering. Dormancy usually takes place during colder periods.

Double-digging: The process of moving the topsoil of one area to another area to reinvigorate the soil.

Drip line: The circumference around a plant formed by water that drips off its outermost leaves or branches.

~E~
Espalier: Method of training a plant in a formal pattern against a wall or trellis.

Evergreen: A plant that retains its green foliage year round and is functional for more than one growing season. Coniferous evergreens have needle-like leaves and produce seed in their cones. Broadleaf evergreens have regular leaf-shaped foliage but retain their leaves throughout the year.

~F~
Fertilizer: Supplement to naturally occurring element necessary for plant growth. Fertilizer can be liquid or granular and organic or inorganic (man-made).

Foliar: Pertaining to the leaves (foliage) of a plant. Foliar fertilizers and pesticides are applied directly to the leaves.

Forcing: Compelling plants, by artificial means, to mature quickly and produce their flowers earlier than normal.

Friable: Characteristic of good soil. Rich in organic matter, friable soil crumbles easily, allows water and oxygen to reach plant roots.

~G~
Germinate: Development from seed to sprout. The requirements may be warmth, water or light according to the plant variety.

Graft: Propagation method performed by joining two plants by connecting the tissues of each.

Groundcovers: Low-growing, spreading plants used for ornamental purposes, or as a substitute for grass.

~H~
Half-hardy: Referring to plants that can withstand long periods of damp or cold weather, but may be damaged by frost.

Harden off: The process of increasing an indoor plant's exposure to light and colder temperatures to acclimate it to outdoor conditions.

Hardscape: Constructed elements of a landscape such as decks, walls fences and driveways.

Hardy: Referring to plants that have the ability to survive prolonged exposure to freezing temperatures.

Heel in: A method of protecting a plant by placing its stems in a shallow trench over winter.

Herbaceous: Referring to non-woody (soft-stemmed) perennial plants that often die back to the ground every winter and reappear in the spring.

Herbicide: A pesticide formulated to kill or control plants.

Hoop stake: A long, thin, metal post with a perpendicular ring of wire at the top, which serves as a support for tall-growing flowers.

Humus: Dark, rich, organic soil matter made from decaying plant or animal material.

Hybrid: A plant that is the offspring of two parent plants of differing varieties, species, or cultivars.

~I~
Indeterminate: A plant that continues to produce flowers or fruit throughout the duration of the growing season.

Insecticide: A pesticide formulated to kill or control insects.

~L~
Lateral bud: Buds formed on the sides of a stem.

Layering: A method of plant propagation by which a single stem of a plant is notched, and buried with its leafy tip exposed, while still attached to the parent.

Leaching: Occurs when water flushes mineral substances and nutrients out of the soil.

Leggy: Refers to plants that have an abnormal amount of stem in relation to their flower and foliage.

Lime: Soil amendment used to reduce acidity. Lime (calcium carbonate) is applied in powdered or pelletized form.

Loam: Ideal garden soil that has a well-balanced moisture of sand, silt and clay.

~M~
Microclimates: Small areas in the home landscape that have unique characteristics regarding sun, shade, wind and/or moisture.

Mulch: Any organic material spread on top of soil to reduce water loss, prevent the growth of weeds.

~N~
Naturalize: A method of random garden plant distribution that simulates the growth of plants in the wild.

~O~
Offshoots: New plants that branch out from the base of a plant's main stem.

Organic: Method of gardening without using synthetic (man-made) products.

Ornamental: A plant raised for aesthetic reasons.

~P~
Pavers: Term used to describe stone, brick or concrete materials used for patios and walkways.

Pesticide: A pesticide is any substance or mixture of substances intended for preventing, destroying, repelling, or mitigating any pest. (US EPA)

Perennial: There are two types. Herbaceous non-woody (soft and fleshy) plants die back each year and grow and bloom each successive year. Woody perennials (such as shrubs and trees) have a period of dormancy but maintain their form year round.

Perlite: Mineral used in potting mix to retain moisture and provide aeration.

pH: Measurement of acidity and alkalinity. pH represents hydrogen ions in the soil and signifies a plant's ability to draw nutrients from the soil.

Pinch back: A method of encouraging bushy plant growth by removing the growing tip.

Plugs: Circular pieces of sod that are planted in a grid formation to start a new lawn.

Propagate: To grow new plants from old ones by using one of a variety of methods.

~R~
Retaining wall: A barrier created with stones, timbers, or boards to prevent the erosion of soil on steep slopes.

Rhizome: A horizontal, fleshy underground stem or runner. Creeping grasses spread by rhizomes or stolons.

Rootbound: Container-grown plants that lack adequate space for root growth.

Rootstock: On grafted plants, the portion that is chosen for the qualities of it's root system. It will be grafted onto the scion.

Row cover: Nylon or synthetic netting used to cover young seedlings to protect them from predators.

~S~
Scarify: To prepare a seed for planting by cutting or nicking the outer layer.

Scion: On grafted plants, the portion that is chosen for its superior leaf- or fruit-production. It will be grafted onto the rootstock.

Shrub: A plant with woody stems that is usually less than 15 ft. tall at maturity, and is either deciduous or evergreen.

Side Dress: Applying fertilizer in a circle or band around plants or rows of plants.

Soil test: A measurement of major nutrient (phosphorous, potassium, and nitrogen) and pH levels in the soil.

Staking: A method of supporting tall, upright-growing plants by tying their stems to a wood or metal post.

Standard: A plant that is trained, through pruning or staking, to the form of a tree.

Stolon: A horizontal, fleshy above-ground stem or runner. Creeping grasses spread by rhizomes or stolons.

Stratify: To prepare a seed for planting by soaking in water and then placing in a warm or cold area.

Sucker: A shoot that grows from a plant's roots or from beneath the surface of the ground.

~T~
Taproot: The first root to grow from a germinating seed. Usually growing straight down, taproots help anchor the plant in the soil.

Tender: Referring to plants that are susceptible to frost and may not be able to survive freezing temperatures.

Terminal bud: The uppermost bud on a stem.

Thinning: Cutting branches or stems back to the main branch to allow sunlight into the plant's center, provide air circulation and encourage remaining stems to grow in their normal direction.

Thatch: A layer of plant debris that accumulates between the soil and the grass blades, and prevents the flow of moisture, air and nutrients to the grass roots.

Top dressing: Feeding plants by sprinkling fertilizer or compost on top of them.

Topiary: The art of pruning and shaping trees and shrubs into decorative shapes.

Topsoil: The uppermost layer of soil that is the site for plant's root growth and contains the most organic matter.

Training: Method of controlling plant growth, especially on climbing plants, by tying the stems to a support and pruning the plant back regularly.

Tuberous: Referring to plants possessing thick and fleshy underground roots that serve as sites for food storage.

Turfgrass: General term used when referring to residential lawn grasses as well as varieties used in sports venues.

~V~
Variety: A naturally grown or cultivated type of plant species.

Variegation: A pattern of stripes or patches on otherwise solid-colored leaves.

Vermiculite: Mineral used in potting mix to retain moisture and provide aeration.

~W~
Weeds: Unwanted plants that grow rampantly through other plantings, competing for food, water and light.

Woody: Referring to hard-stemmed perennial plants that are capable of surviving cold weather without dying back.

~X~
Xeriscaping: Creating a lower maintenance landscape with native plants and reduced areas of turfgrass. A primary goal of xeriscaping is reducing landscape water consumption.

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*Getting the Gardens Ready for Spring*
March

This is the time to clear debris from the garden and prepare the soil. Clearing away leaves and debris reduces the possibility of fungi or diseases.

Break up the hard soil surface with a pitchfork or shovel. Enrich the soil by premixing compost, fresh soil and fertilizer and spreading it throughout your planting area.

April

Now that the soil has softened some, it's time to address the lawn. Begin by raking the lawn gently and ridding it of sticks, dead plants and other debris.

Obtain a seed that matches the exiting grass in the ground and thinly sprinkle it in the bare areas. Stamp the seed into the ground gently with the base of your shoe.

Lightly sprinkle topper soil over the seed and keep the ground moist for 10 days. Install a sprinkler if necessary.

May

Now is the time to address excess growth and pests. Clear away plant growth from the base of trees to at least a five-foot diameter.

Some plants can be thinned out by dividing them. Use a shovel to divide the root system into two separate, distinct plants. Only use this method with sturdy root systems. Consult a local plant nursery for advice.

While at the plant nursery, purchase ladybugs. Simply hose down the plants to knock pests to the ground, then release ladybugs at the ground level. Ladybugs prey on many garden pests without doing harm to the vegetation.

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*Beginner's Garden*

Add good-quality, organic amendments to soil to maintain its quality. Consult local nurseries to find soil type.

Change soil in potted containers once a year.

Determine whether the area in which you'd like to plant a garden enjoys full sun, partial sun or shade. Choose plants according to their requirements. For example, plants with green foliage generally prefer shade, while those with flowers prefer sunlight.

Basic garden tools include pruners, a shovel, rake, pickax and hand trowel.

When transferring a plant from container to ground, be sure to dig a large hole. Knock the side of the container to loosen soil and remove plant. The roots of the plant may be compacted, so loosen them to give them a better chance to grow. When placing in hole, make sure the top of the root ball is even with the soil level. Fill the soil around the plant, pressing with fingers to get rid of air pockets. Create a little basin around the plant to collect water.

Mulch keeps soil moisture in, weeds down, decomposes over time and adds an attractive touch to the garden.

Keep garden cleared of leaf debris and weeds.

Spraying insecticidal soap and water in the garden combats nearly any bug problem.

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*Getting the Garden*

Any time is a good time to start a garden as long as the ground isn't frozen solid or soaking wet. For many new to gardening, starting small is the preferred choice. Bugs, weeds and diseases can often prove to be discouraging. As your confidence and abilities increase, so can the size of your garden!

Try to situate your garden in an area that gets at least six hours of sun a day. Typically, that's going to be a spot that faces either due south or southeast. Your garden also needs to be conveniently placed near the house and a water source. If you have a compost pile, place the garden in close proximity to make it easier to maintain. Keep your garden away from mature trees that could invade your soil with their roots. Underground utility lines should also be avoided for this reason.

Another important consideration is providing air circulation for your garden. Avoid keeping plants beside solid walls or fences. This will reduce the likelihood of fungal diseases attacking your plants.

To mark the perimeter of your garden, use a string attached to stakes, or use a garden hose. To keep grass from growing into the garden, use a border--plastic, metal, wood, stone or even a plain trench will serve this purpose.

Most likely, your garden will be covered with turfgrass. Do not till this grass into the soil as it will only produce thousands of tiny sprigs that will sprout again. Remove the sod with a shovel to a depth of about four inches and cart from the garden. Replace this sod with a mixture of leaves and compost to a depth of three or four inches. Water this area well for a week or two. If you see any weeds pop up, a slight tug will solve the problem. The sod you removed can be used to cover bare spots in the yard or can be stacked upside down and in layers to turn to compost later. If clay or rock is a problem in your garden, you can construct a frame on top of the ground for planting--be sure to use rot-resistant lumber! Once filled with organic matter, it's ready to plant.

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*10 Best Garden Crops for Beginners*

If you want to grow a garden next spring, it's never too early to start planning. One of the best ways to "learn as you go" is to read the seed catalogs that many companies will send for free.

If you're a beginner, consider starting with the 10 crops discussed below. All are easy to grow, and this combination offers lots of possibilities for cooking. Some of these crops are best grown by setting out started seedlings, but most are easy to grow from a packet of seeds.

1. Radishes. Radishes do well even in not-so-great garden soil and are ready to harvest in only a few weeks. Plant the seeds in spring and fall.

2. Salad greens. (lettuce, spinach, arugula and corn salad). Pick your favorite, or try a mix — many companies sell mixed packets for summer and winter gardening. Plant the seeds in spring and fall, and you can pick salads almost year-round.

3. Green beans. Easy to grow and prolific. If you get a big crop, they freeze well, and they're also delicious when pickled as dilly beans. Start with seeds after all danger of frost has passed.

4. Onions. Start with small plants, and if they do well, you can harvest bulb onions. If not, you can always eat the greens.

5. Strawberries. Perfectly ripe strawberries are unbelievably sweet, and the plants are surprisingly hardy. Buy bare-root plants in early spring. Put this perennial in a sunny spot and keep it well weeded.

6. Peppers. Both hot peppers and bell peppers are easy to grow. Start with plants and let peppers from the same plant ripen for different lengths of time to get a range of colors and flavors.

7. Bush zucchini. This squash won’t take up as much room in your garden as many other types, and it’s very prolific. Start from seeds or transplants. You won’t need more than a few plants for a bumper crop.

8. Tomatoes. There’s just no substitute for a perfectly ripe homegrown tomato, and it’s hard to go wrong when you start with strong plants. If you get a big crop, consider canning or freezing.

9. Basil. Many herbs are easy to grow, but basil is a good choice because it’s a nice complement to tomatoes. Basil is easy to grow from seeds or from transplants.

10. Potatoes. An easy-to-grow staple that stores well when kept cool. A simple and low-maintenance approach is to plant potatoes in straw rather than soil. "Seeds" are whole or cut sections of potatoes, sold in early spring.

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*Top Ten Veggies*

It'll soon be plantin' time, and what better way to get prepared than to do a mouthwatering review of what's out there to grow in your own back yard this spring. Let's count down to the #1 veggie. These are the top 10 vegetable crops in America. Here we go!! 10-9-8-7....

10. Corn
Native to Central America and planted worldwide since the 15th century, corn is a warm-season crop that requires plenty of fertilizer.


9. Radishes
Radishes are native to western Asia. The original radish was probably black-skinned , and it wasn't until the 18th century that the more familiar versions came along. The root vegetable arrived via European settlers and was planted in colonial gardens. Radishes are a cool-season crop best planted in late winter or early spring and again in late summer or early fall. Unfortunately, they contain almost no nutritional value but are great for adding zest to salads.

8. Carrots
Carrots, another cool-season crop, originated in Afghanistan. The first carrots were deep purple until a 16th-century mutation turned them orange. They are related to the poisonous hemlock and won't grow well in heavy soils.

7. Squash
Indigenous to the Americas, Squash comes in summer and winter varieties. Summer squash (crookneck, zucchini) should be planted when temperatures are consistently in the 70s. Winter squash (acorn, butternut, spaghetti) should be planted a month or so later and harvested as a fall crop.

6. Lettuce
Lettuce comes from the Mediterranean region and is another cool-season crop. Loose-leaf lettuce is nutritious; iceberg is more common but has almost no nutritional value.

5. Onions
Among the earliest of all food crops are Onions. In cultivation around 3000 B.C., onions were grown because they tasted good and were thought to enhance sexual potency. Onions can be grown from seed, although most gardeners plant sets in late winter or early spring. Scallions can be harvested just a few weeks after planting.

4. Cucumbers
While wild Cucumbers grew in the Himalayas some 10,000 years ago, domesticated varieties come from India and have been grown for the last 3,000 years. Cukes are great for salads but offer next to nothing in the way of nutrition.

3. Beans
An easy-to-grow, warm-season vegetable, beans came from Argentina or Brazil and are available in many tasty varieties--bush or pole beans, string, lima or dried beans. They will not tolerate cooler temperatures, especially if the soil is damp .

2. Peppers
Peppers got their start in South America (most probably central Bolivia) and range from mild to hot in flavor. They prefer hot growing conditions over cool ones.

1. Tomatoes
And here we are: Tomatoes are the number-one food crop grown in backyard America today. Botanically, these "vegetables" are really fruits. But we love 'em by the bushel no matter what they are!

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